‘So come one, come all. And thank goodness, because for my money Williams is one of the best chefs of his generation. I’ve suspected this since I went to the Bull last year and ate lentils far more thrilling than lentils have any right to be. The Fat Badger confirms it. Upstairs from the jazz bar, in a low-ceilinged, log cabin-style room with an open kitchen, we are checked for allergies and told to await whatever food arrives.’
